Island News

Hidden Hvar: The Coolest Place on the Pakleni Islands - the OTHER Jerolim Beach

By Ivana 28 February 2015

The biggest undiscovered secret on the Pakleni Islands: Kordovon bay on the other side of Jerolim. 

My knowledge of the Pakleni Islands has grown exponentially over the last few months, and I have experienced some of the best moments of the year there. There have been such diverse activities that it is hard to believe that they are all neighbours. From the fabulous romantic dinner nights and all night partying at Stipanska, to the culture and charm of Palmizana, to the grape picking and Roman mud bath at Vlaka, I have had a privileged summer, and I thought there was nothing left to discover. 

"Have you been to Mare's place on Jerolim?"

"You mean Amo Beach?"

"No, the other side of the island, a beach called Kordovon." 

I had not even heard of the place and I asked a couple of friends from Hvar Town later that day. They had not heard of it either. A cool beach bar that locals did not know about just a short boat ride away. I was fascinated.  

Jerolim is an interesting place in terms of people's perceptions. Named by CNN as its number one FKK nudist beach in the world, it has a long naturist tradition, with many visitors naturist regulars for more than 40 years. 

Whisper it quietly, but it also referred to in various gay literature as one of the best gay destinations in Croatia, with a stretch of coast away from the centre discreetly allocated to gay visitors.  

It is a small island, and the main bar is Amo, clearly visible from Hvar Town, and a short water taxi ride away from the riva. And then there is the lesser known Kordovon beach, just 40m away from Amo on the other side of the island, across the thinnest part of Jerolim.

Enter an organic world of relaxation with simply the best energy I have experienced on Hvar this year. Rustic it is, as well as totally charming and engaging. There are some cool pieces of art made by local artists from driftwood - dinosaurs and fish hanging in the trees; the sunbeds are of wood and not the usual plastic; and the choice of view is uninterrupted sea and tranquillity on one side or majestic Hvar Town through the trees on the other.  

There is a bar where drinks and light snacks can be ordered, then enjoyed at the bar on in the hammocks in the trees.  

I haven't spent a lot of time at nudist beaches, but from my limited experience Kordovon was a little different. Yes there were naturists, relaxing in the warm October sun, but there were also several sun seekers in their swimming outfits, coexisting peacefully and enjoying the aura of a very special place. 

Of all the beautiful and relaxed places I have visited this year, this was the one which had the most positive energy and was a true escape from the crowds and the stresses of daily life.

The taxi boats are still running to Jerolim, and although Amo is now closed for the season, just go to the left of the restaurant and follow the path to the other side of the bay, and discover one of the most stunning locations on the Pakleni Islands. 

I had wondered where the actual beach was that CNN named as the best on Jerolim, and the best answer I found was that it was the whole island and not an individual beach. Having visited Kordovon, I am convinced that this was the beach - it is fabulous.  

A big thank you for my friend for pointing out this hidden gem - I can't believe there are any other such magical places yet to be discovered, but drop me a note is there are... 

We spent a magical five hours at Kordovan, before taking the boat back into Hvar Town at sunset, and an evening of wine and fine dining - the perfect combination. October in Hvar has started perfectly.