Welcome to Split, one of the fastest developing tourism cities in Europe, and we are here to tell you why! Once known as The Gateway to the Islands, Split has come into its own as a destination in recent years, passing one million overnight stays in the first 10 months of 2014 alone. Looking for history? Immerse yourself in 1700 years of history of a palace of a Roman Emperor. Islands? Split is the gateway to Dalmatian jewels such as Hvar, Brac and Vis. Beaches? Your choices of entry into the pristine Adriatic are enviable. Foodies? Croatia's gastronomic offer is attracting increasing international attention, and you can find out why on a stay in Split. Sport? Welcome to the home of Hajduk Split and Goran Ivanisevic. Activities? From sailing to rock climbing, hunting to horse riding, it is all here. And so much more. Welcome to Total Split, the most comprehensive and most regularly updated information service about the city of Split. Whether you are looking for flight information, a hotel deal or a hidden restaurant with authentic food, you will find it here. We are a small but dedicated local team, part Croatian and part expat, with a single mission – to bring the fantastic city of Split to the world in a lively and informative manner. Enjoy the website, enjoy Split, and be sure to let us know your thoughts.
The thing about discovering Split when living on the islands is that things can get overly focused on the port and palace area. Walk 100m from the catamaran from Jelsa on arrival and you are in the heart of 1,700 years of history, with shops, cafes, restuarants and history all around. As a place to begin exploring Split, there is no better starting point, but it does make it harder to branch out and discover the rest of Split.
Unless you have a quality local guide.
We were to meet at lunch at two. Assuming that our rendezvous would be palace-based, I did not formalise a meeting point, assuming it could be arranged nearer the time, so I was surprised to be asked to name a meeting point for car transportation.
Entering the car by F-Caffe, we bade farewell to the palace, headed north, then west through the tunnel, ending up at the ACI marina, where I had never been before. It was stuffed full of yachts, and with the glorious December afternoon, one could have been forgiven for thinking it was the height of summer. Historic Split glistened across the water, with the majestic mountains behind. That really was a stunning view - is it really December?
If the view outside did not feel like out of season, I was in for a bigger surprise inside. If I was a betting man, I would have lost everything. Tuesday afternoon, less than a fortnight before Christmas, 3pm, restaurant out of town. How many people?
It was FULL. I had heard great things about Zrno Soli all summer from sailing enthusiasts who had moored up at the ACI marina in Split before coming to Hvar, but I had not expected to see such a busy restaurant so late in the year. There was not a table free and - perhaps the best recommendation of all - with the exception of myself and one other Scotsman, all the other diners were local. Even the dedicated, and very private, VIP room was taken.
It was another view of Dalmatia. Marina means yachts means money means luxury. From my brief introduction to Zrno Soli, the restaurant was more than meeting the demand for high quality service and cuisine. The staff had mastered the combined art of warmth, service and efficiency, and it was a joy to be taken care of. We didn't even get as far as the menu, simply ordering a few nibbles to see where that got us.
It got me wanting to go back... I was particulary impressed by the octopus - and I have eaten a LOT of octopus salad in my time in Dalmatia. Extremely well-presented and very tasty. And when I heard they do sushi and sashimi...
While it is easy to get caught up in the dining experience, one should not forget the astonishing view, or the fact that Zrno Soli is in the marina, and so a logical eatery for the yachting community, who can also take care of the restaurant's yacht catering service. They are open for breakfast, and there is also a very friendly cafe on the ground floor, again with amazing views.
It was the find of the day for me, and a restaurant I will return to. Soon. Did I mention sushi?
Uvala Baluni 8, Split 21000